Showing posts with label design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design. Show all posts
5/10/2013
iPOD - MP3 Player Charger MC34063
Portable iPod charger that you can use while away from your computer. The circuit is based around an MC34063 switchmode regulator. This has high efficiency so that there is very little heat produced inside the box, even when delivering its maximum output current. The circuit is more complicated than if we used a 7805 3-terminal regulator but since the input voltage could be 15V DC or more, the voltage dissipation in such a regulator could be 5W or more at 500mA. and 5W is far too much for a 7805, even with quite a large heatsink.
TFC718 AO3401 78M05 JRC4558 AT24C02
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5/08/2013
ULN2003AN high-voltage, high-current Darlington transistor array
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The ULN2003AN is a high-voltage, high-current Darlington transistor array. It consists of seven npn Darlington pairs that feature high-voltage outputs with common-cathode clamp diodes for switching inductive loads.
ULN2003AN absolute maximum ratings: (1)Collector-emitter voltage: 50 V; (2)Clamp diode reverse voltage: 50 V; (3)Input voltage, VI: 30 V; (4)Peak collector current: 500 mA; (5)Output clamp current, IOK: 500 mA; (6)Total emitter-terminal current: -2.5 A; (7)Operating free-air temperature range, TA: -20℃ to 70℃; (8)Lead temperature 1,6 mm (1/16 inch) from case for 10 seconds: 260℃; (9)Storage temperature range, Tstg: -65℃ to 150℃.
ULN2003AN features: (1)500-mA-Rated Collector Current (Single Output); (2)High-Voltage Outputs: 50 V; (3)Output Clamp Diodes; (4)Inputs Compatible With Various Types of Logic; (5)Relay-Driver Applications.
OPA2340UA SP232ACN MAX7219CWG MAX233ACWP LM2904N
LM2596S-ADJ LM319N LM339DR MAX1715EEI MAX3232ESE
MAX202EESE LM2904M LM833N LMC6034IM LM723CN
LM741CN EPF10K30AQC240-3 AT89C52-24PC AD8042AR FDS6690A
5/07/2013
The Display Breakout Board MAX7219CNG
It is going to take a little more than luck to control these using an Arduino Duemilanove or Uno. A LED matrix is wired so that a common pin controls the anode or cathode of a row or column. This allows the matrix to be controlled using just 16 pins instead of 64 individual ones. However there is another trick that has to be done when controlling a LED matrix, and that is to light up a single LED at a time. When LEDs are wired in a matrix, there are locations where if you light up 2 LEDs a third one might light up too. To avoid this, each LED is turned on and off quickly.
I chose to use an IC made by Maxim IC called the MAX7219CNG. This will allow each individual LED to be addressed in the matrix. These can be purchased at Sparkfun Electronics . Here is the datasheet. This IC was made to control a single 8x8 LED matrix. We will be using 6 matrices so this project requires 6 of these ICs. There is a nice library that was created for these that will aid in the programming of this project. This IC and library takes care of lighting up which LEDs that you want to light up without worrying about turning them on and off quickly like I explained. This will allow us to easily create and display images and worry about the pong side of things and not about all the finer details of displaying the image.
Now the IC needs to be connected to each matrix using the correct circuit. I designed a simple breakout board for this IC. I am not an electrical engineer, but the schematic you see in the pictures is pretty much what I understood from this page . Not really that complicated. I made this in Eagle and have uploaded my schematic and board files for you. Basically there are headers for the communication pins and for the output pins that go to the matrix. There are 2 capacitors on the input power and a resistor that sets the current for the LEDs. I used a 1K resistor for my application which worked fine.
So once you have the files, you can order the PCBs (printed circuit boards) from a batch house, I use Seeedstudio which will cost about $10 for 10 PCBs, or you can always create the circuit on a prototype board if you choose. You can see some images of my finished PCBs in the pictures.
You can order the parts needed to assemble the breakout boards from Digikey .
The parts needed are:
- 6 10uF electrolytic capacitors
- 6 0.1uF non-polarized capacitors
- 6 1K resistors
- 6 24 Pin IC sockets
- Optionally you can use headers instead of soldering wires directly to the boards. I did not.
Now solder these components on to the break out board. This is a pretty simple step. You just have to make sure you put the polarized electrolytic capacitor in correctly and line the notch in the IC socket up with the notch in the silkscreen of the PCB. See the pictures for the soldering step. When you are done soldering, you can insert the MAX7219CNG right now or wait until after you solder the matrix in place, which will be next, so you do not damage the IC in any way.
IRF7413 LM348N LM2904 MAX693CWE IRF640
LM124J MAX1617AMEE IS61C256AH-15J INA114AP LM324DR
LF398N ICL7107CPL LF356N EPM3256ATC144-10 AD1981BJST
AD574AJD BCM5208KPF AMS1117-3. FDS6912A EPM3064ATC44-10N
4/28/2013
Microcontroller Advanced Kit - MIDI Controller 6N137
This project shows you how the hardware of a MIDI interface works and goes through some simple examples to show how the controller can be used in MIDI systems. First we will start by explaining the details of the hardware interface. Then we will look at the MIDI protocol and see how simple it is to write custom software for this MIDI controller.
There are only a couple parts needed to build the MIDI connections. A few resistors, a diode, and a small 8 pin IC and that is it. The controller part of the system is a 2051 microcontroller (a 20 pin version of the popular 8051). The MIDI interface connects to the serial port of the 2051 (pins 2 and 3). The 2051 also has a reset circuit (the 10 uF capacitor and the 8.2k resistor) and an oscillator circuit (the 24 MHz crystal and the two 33 pF capacitors). For more information on the 2051, The only thing not shown is the 5 volt power supply that creates Vcc (5 Volts DC) for the circuit. An LM7805 and 220 uF capacitor is included with the kit to create 5 Volts DC from a 9 to 12 Volt DC source.
The 6N137 isolates one electrical system from another. There is no electrical connection between devices connected by MIDI. When a current flows through the internal LED connected between pins 2 and 3, the LED transmits light to a light detecting diode. The diode is activated and the Output at pin 6 is pulled low by the internal transistor. If no current flows then the Output floats. Rather than let it float, we connect an 8.2k resistor to pin 6 to lightly pull the voltage at the Output to 5 Volts when the circuit in not active.
The microcontroller sends signals through the MIDI port by controlling the voltage at its pin 3. The current is provided by the 5 volts (Vcc) connected to pin 4 of the MIDI Out port. When the MIDI Out port is connected to a MIDI In port of another system the following circuit is created.
AD8016ARB TMS320F2812PGFA PCF8584T SN75176BP PCM1801U
PCI9080-3 MAX211ECAI MAX708CSA MAX1922ESA LM339D
MAX3185CWP LM2903N MC34119P IR2110 LM2575T-5.0
IR2153 MAX1617MEE MAX813LCSA MAX797CSE LM358D
4/24/2013
ULN2803A STMicroelectronics Integrated Circuits IC
The circuit diagram of this programmable sequencer could be applied in a number of timing uses. Prior to the start of each interval, an audible tone is generated, and a seven-segment LED display shows the interval number. Prior to the end of that inerval, the buzzer sounds again. IC1 is a 2240 timer/counter device that clocks up to 256 periods, the durations of which are determined by resistor R1 and capacitor C1. The 2240 has its RESET and TRIGGER pins (10 and 11) wired via a push switch S1.The timer is used to operate a memory chip, IC2. The first 8 addressed bits are used by the timer/counter to step through the 256 steps available for each program. The other 6 bits are selected by an external switch network S2 to S7 which permits up to 26 programs, each of 256 steps. The 27C64 has eight outputs, which was enough for a single-digit LED display plus a piezo buzzer.
The ULN2803A is a high-voltage, high-current Darlington transistor array. The device consists of eight npn Darlington pairs that feature high-voltage outputs with common-cathode clamp diodes for switching inductive loads. The collector-current rating of each Darlington pair is 500 mA. The Darlington pairs may be connected in parallel for higher current capability.
Applications include relay drivers, hammer drivers, lamp drivers, display drivers (LED and gas discharge), line drivers, and logic buffers. The ULN2803A has a 2.7-kΩ series base resistor for each Darlington pair for operation directly with TTL or 5-V CMOS devices.
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4/16/2013
10 watt RF amplifier for 18MHz by 2SC1969
This project and your efforts will provide you with a 0.55…3 watt input to easily 10 watt output. The two linear amplifiers are ment for use with QRP SSB/CW/FM/AM transmitters on the amateur bands 15 and 17 meters can be powered from a 12 volt DC supply. The design is a good balance between output power, physical size. The completed amplifier will reward the builder with a clean, more powerful output signal for a QRP rig when radio conditions become marginal.
2SC1969 AT24C02 HV9910 BTA16-600B
4/15/2013
An electronic ballast model 234SLESW designed SS8050
This is the schematic of an electronic ballast model 234SLESW designed for running a pair of 4 foot T8 or T12 fluorescent bulbs. It claims to have an Energy Star rating when used with F32T8 bulbs. I picked one of these out of a dumpster and it was broken so I had to draw up a schematic. I figured I'd share it with you. It should be fairly easy to construct if you needed a light, efficient, flicker free ballast for your shop or garage or heck, even your living room!
WARNING: This circuit is AC line powered and contains voltages and currents which can KILL if you are not careful. Charged capacitors will SURPRISE YOU! They can hold a lethal charge for hours! If you don't know much about working with line (and higher) voltages or if you aren't crazy (like me) then DO NOT attempt to construct this circuit. I CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE if you electrocute yourself to death! That said, let's have some fun!
Parts List
R1, R6 470K Non-Flameproof
R2 22R
R3, R5 1R
R4 30R
R7, R9 30R 1/4W
R8, R10 22R
R11 47R 1/4W
CO1, C7, C8 470n, 250V
C1, C4, C5 100n 63V
C2, C3 47u, 250V
C6 2n2
C9 - 12 33n, 630V
C14 3n3, 2KV Ceramic disc
L1 See Notes
L2 See Notes
L3 See Notes
T1 See Notes
D1 - D5 1N4007
Q1, Q2 PHE13005
Q3, Q4 SS8050
DIAC 32V, DB3
RV 270V 10% Zinc Oxide Varistor ZOV-07D271K
F1 2.5A
All resistors 1/2 Watt and flameproof unless otherwise specified. All capacitors polyester unless otherwise specified.
4/07/2013
Design Of Fixed-off-time-controlled Pfc Pre-regulators With The L6562
Two methods of controlling Power Factor Corrector (PFC) pre-regulators based on boost topology are cur- rently in use: the Fixed-Frequency (FF) PWM and the Transition Mode (TM) PWM (fixed ON-time, variable frequency). The first method employs average current-mode control, a relatively complex technique requiring sophisticated controller IC's (e.g. STMicroelectronics' L4981A B) and a considerable component count. The second one uses the simpler peak current-mode control, which is implemented with cheaper controller IC's (e.g. STMicroelectronics' L6561 L6562 , much fewer external parts and is therefore much less expensive. With the first method the boost inductor works in Continuous Conduction Mode (CCM), while TM makes the inductor work on the boundary between continuous and discontinuous mode, by definition. For a given power throughput, TM operation then involves higher peak currents as compared to FF-CCM (see figure 1). This, also consistently with the above mentioned cost considerations, suggests the use of TM in a lower power range, while FF-CCM is recommended for higher power levels. This criterion, though always true, is sometimes difficult to apply, especially for a midrange power level, say around 150-300W. The assessment of which approach gives the better cost/performance trade-off needs to be done on a case-by-case basis, considering the cost and the stress of not only power semiconductors and magnetics but also of the EMI filter: at the same power level, the switching frequency component to be fil- tered out in a TM system is twice the line current, whereas it is typically 1/3 or 1/4 in a CCM system.
Design Of Fixed-off-time-controlled Pfc Pre-regulators With The L6562 application circuits
4/03/2013
Anushri development SSM2164
The Anushri project actually has three roots. One of them was a concept for a synth “celebrating” the SSM2164, using one of these chips for each voltage-controlled element (dual VCO, VCF, and VCA), which I started simulating in september 2011 and abandoned given the complexity of the resulting machine which would be unsuitable for a kit. The second was a concept for an “analog control board” for the Shruthi-1, replacing the digital oscillators by a single VCO – a kind of upgrade to the Sidekick. Given the increasing complexity of Shruthi-1 filter boards – which relied on digital switching, and the difficulty of cramming a full VCO circuit and LFOs/envelopes in the small board space, not to mention a MIDI->CV converter to make it useful, this project did not go very far. The last project came from a small synth manufacturer who asked me a quote for designing the digital logic of an analogue synth (MIDI>CV, arpeggiator and digital LFOs). This intrigued me and I sort of worked my way through half of the code for this to see how easy it would be given that all the functional blocks were available from existing projects. All these were “scratch an itch” side projects, rather than something I really believed in as a product.
In february I gave an interview for a modular synth blog, and talking about the Shruthi, I said that I found VCOs uninteresting. I started thinking that maybe I was fooling myself about that just because I never went through the process of getting one to work, and started looking again into the topic – using the SSM2164 saw-core I had been playing with in simulation previously. Around march, the Ambika project was approaching completion and I was getting very frustrated about it – the development seemed never-ending, with many bad surprises on the road, and just like the Shruthi-1 I was a bit scared at the thought that users would never, ever, get enough of the project – and that it would be feature request after feature request for the months (years?) following the release. I thought about the analog minisynth concept again, and was seduced by the fact that it would be a pleasant change from Ambika – the “one knob per function” interface people expect from a monosynth would keep the project away from feature creep (and hardware is much harder to upgrade than software!); and it seemed like a relatively small and easy thing to build compared to Ambika. I breadboarded my 2164 VCO + a SVF using the remaining half of the chip, a LM13700 VCA (I did not want to use another half SSM2164 for that), and it was indeed fun to play with!
One thing still bothered me: there were already many one-VCO synths on the market (Minibrute, Dark energy, Domino, Nanozwerg), and I wanted to go a bit further sonically. Adding a second VCO? No, too much circuitry. Adding a digital oscillator à la Shruthi-1? Not an option indeed. I had committed myself to use a high resolution/refresh rate for the CVs (to make it as smooth as possible), and there wasn’t enough CPU left on the ATMega328. The bit of inspiration came from reading Tom Wiltshire’s page about the Juno DCO. I realized that a DCO is really just a VCO with sync signals coming from a digital source. So I decided to route a sync signal into the VCO to achieve a hardsync sound – the sync signal source being the 16-bit hardware timer from the 328p. This worked great and allowed both DCO-like operation (something I did not really bother with) and buzzing hardsync sounds. It did not take long before I decided to route this digital sync signal to other places – the VCO current source, to get linear FM, and the mixer, where it could be used to widen the VCO sound. Another idea that came to me for enriching the sound was to find a use for the unused half of the LM13700. When overdriven, OTAs add a characteristic “tanh” saturation to the signal. Furthermore, I had already observed on the Ambika SMR4 board how their built-in Darlington buffer yields clipped/asymmetric signals when incorrectly used. This gave a straightforward but very useful distortion/fuzz circuit. At this stage the design looked good to me. I decided to add a bunch of modular-style connectors, given the number of requests I had received in the past regarding interfacing the Shruthi-1 with modular gear. I came up with a first layout which used two rows of pots, one for the synthesis functions (directly wired into the analog signal processing chain), the other software-defined, serving as ADSR/LFO controls, general system settings, and 8 steps + length control for an analog-style step sequencer. Writing the firmware was a very, very quick affair, given that I already had the basic code tree for a monosynth ready (If you’re wondering, the very first piece of code I write on a new project is voice.h and parameter.cc). I got a proto made and as usual: the firmware was running flawlessly on first boot minus all buttons and pots operating backwards, but the whole thing felt broken.
The analog-style 8-step sequencer left me unimpressed. I still don’t understand how people can be comfortable with the idea of programming 2 or 4 bar note patterns with *knobs*. I decided to bet all my money on the 101-style sequencer instead, even if it made it impossible (for the moment) to use the unit without external MIDI input.
Once 15mm knobs were fitted on the pots, the layout was not very usable.
The long row of controls made it hard to remember which pot does what.
In a case, it would have looked fugly. Especially since it would expose A LOT of solder joints, and there would be a lot of white space.
The VCO tracking really sucked.
To solve the layout problem, I bit the bullet and re-laid out everything on two boards – something I originally wanted to avoid to make for a slimmer case and bring the cost down. It took two whole days, but the readability of the layout greatly improved. Bonus: the boards were now small enough to be mounted behind a Eurorack panel – this mattered to me since I was starting building my little modular setup at that time.
The VCO problem was a tough one, because I spent a lot of energy trying to solve the wrong problem. My original focus was on the integrator reset time in the saw-core, but even by faking Spice models of the crappiest JFETs, or of op-amps with the most horrible offsets, or of comparators slow as molasses, I could not get in simulation something as bad as what I was measuring. That’s when I decided to pimp my measuring equipment and get something more serious to probe the integrator current source…
After a few days blocked on the problem, everything pointed to the exponential converter – something confirmed after rapidly breadboarding a standard transistor-pair expo converter in place of the 2164 and getting 5 octaves of tracking minus temperature stability. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong… It turned out that the SSM2164 input is not the ideal virtual ground I thought it was! The problem was solved by increasing the value of the resistor at the 2164 input (from 15k to 100k) – less current, less non-linearities affecting scaling.
With that problem fixed, I got a second proto made. The interface was much better, and the VCO tracked well over 5 octaves (the remaining error was due to the integrator reset time and some errors in the 2164 expo response – would have required more circuitry for compensation…).
What remained to be solved was what to put in place of the analog-style step sequencer. I quickly toyed with the idea of an 8 steps waveform editor for the LFO (a kind of sequencer but at modulation rates) – wasn’t good. I had 9 knobs, roughly 40% of the CPU after some optimizations, and 2 days left before a demo at Modular Square. And this is when I decided to ressucitate… eigendrums. This was a quite old drum machine concept inspired by an ISMIR paper by Ellis and Arroyo. Let’s do it!
First problem was how to get audio out of the MCU. Solved by hacking the board to hook up the MCU PWM pin to the output op-amp (I also tried hooking it into the VCF->VCA, but then it sucked because a synth note had to be played for the drums to be heard). I had to swap the functions of two MCUs pins for that. Damn, the Shruthi-1 made me sick of PWM and I was at it again…
Second problem was to code a drumsynth with a very low CPU requirement. Simplest approach that could work: a digital sine oscillator with AD envelope for pitch and amplitude + noise + ringmod. Since I decided to dedicate only one knob for adjusting the tone, the knob worked as a morphing control through various combination of parameters that I programmed into the unit through CC with a MIDIpal, writing down parameter values on paper. Later I ditched the ringmod and used a sample for the HH.
Third problem was the drum pattern generation. I wanted something fun to play with, that could generate musically interesting patterns, and that could allow the classic “build-ups” found in electronic music. My first try, the straightforward eigenrhythm implementation worked well, but it was not fun to play. At this stage, I had 6 knobs controlling the 6 principal components + 3 for tone control. The problem was that the last knobs had decreasing impact (PCA “sorts” dimensions by decreasing variance), and that there was no way of getting dense or sparse patterns – the PCA learned the “average” density of a pattern and I wanted a way of bringing in outliers too! What I wanted was something more like an euclidean sequencer, in which it is possible to control sparsity/density. So let us work backwards… With 3 knobs dedicated to a sparsity/density control for each instrument (how would it work? TBD…), this would leave me with only 2 knobs for controlling the base structure of the drum pattern. How to map the space of drum patterns into a 2D space? My first approach was to get a bank of presets, lay them out in 2D using the first 2 axes of the PCA, and use the 2 knobs as X/Y coordinates in this space (did it before, see figure 4). Problem: the map has gaps, and I don’t want to store many patterns in flash. Same problem with LLE. I want hmmm… something like a topology-aware VQ that would give me a grid-like codebook? How is that called? Kohonen map! That’s how I decided to use self-organizing maps to build a 2D grid of patterns. Last open problem was the sparsity/density control – once you have a pattern, how to progressively remove notes to turn it into an empty pattern, and how to progressively add notes to turn it into a grid of sixteenth notes. If, like me, your past job involved counting n-grams and solving combinatorial optimization problems, the solution gets very obvious: select the sequence of note addition/removals that visits the rhythmic patterns with the highest frequency in a corpus of drum loops. The library is the grammar. Nice side-effect: randomly walking through this Hamming neighborhood creates musically interesting variations for free! I made it in time for the Modular Square demo – though the whole thing was trained in a small corpus of rhythms (larger model on its way – it did not make it into the first version of the Anushri firmware).
After the Modular Square demo, I noticed something odd about my proto… When switching from the single board layout to the 2 boards layout, I blindly rearranged the available controls without realizing there was room for more! I added two knobs, changing the number of software knobs from 9 to 10 (functions: VCO detune, velocity destination control, and a bitcrusher for the drum section which is the FX maximizing the wow/CPU cycles ratio – leaving all competitors in the dust); and adding a knob for sub-oscillator level. And more room for 2 modular I/O jacks! This is how we got to the present third revision of the board.
The final touches to the firmware included a secret way of overriding the drum sequencer with a x0x pattern input on the keyboard, a way of sequencing the drum section from an external source, and bringing back the CC drum sounds editing I used during development.
All in all, the project took 1 month of hardcore development to get the basics done, 3 months to feel “right”, and 4 months of polishing – which are the ratios I am getting used to!
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4/01/2013
TDA7000 FM Receiver / TV Tuner
TDA7000 is a great chip because it includes RF input stage, mixer, local oscillator, IF (intermediate frequency) Limiter, IF filter, amplifier, Phase demodulator, Mute detector, Frequency-Locked-Loop system and voltage controlled oscillator (VCO) all in a single chip, so you don't have to do so much tuning and tweaking as you would normally do in super heterodyne receivers. TDA7000 is also a great choice for folks that don't have great experience with RF circuits due to the fact that there are few external capacitors & resistors needed, no external IF filters, and only one variable coil and varicap diode.
The IC has an FLL (Frequency-Locked-Loop) system with an intermediate frequency of 70 kHz. The IF selectivity is obtained by active RC filters. The only function which needs alignment is the resonant circuit for the oscillator, thus selecting the reception frequency.
Spurious reception is avoided by means of using a muting circuit similar to squelch. This eliminates and rejects other input signals around selected frequency so that even remote stations can sound clear just as if they were located near by.
3/28/2013
Through Hole Devices Are Becoming Hard To Get 2SK170
I had no problems getting the 2SK170 JFETs from Futurlec. They were on tape. I don’t know what manufacturer, but they are not Toshiba.
Right now, I think a lot of the major semi makers are abandoning through hole parts, and going to surface mount only. To get a through hole part, one may have to buy a large amount (a whole reel) or get the part from a maker such as KEC (Korea Electronics), BEL (Bharat Elec) or Rohm.
You can get the National Semi Discrete Data Book 1978 Edition (PDF) from Archive.org. When you look up a transistor, it tells you the process that it was from. In other words, the chip inside the transistor is sorted from the chips made by a certain process. Some have higher specifications, for instance higher gain. Thes may be sold as 2N3904. The lower gain chips may be sold as 2N3903. But they are the same chip, and if the circuit is not critical, you may be able to substitute the 2N3904 for the 2N3903.
In the Pro Electron Series, you may find that the older transistors such as the BC107 were packaged in the TO-106 package, which is no longer made. But you may be able to find an equivalent transistor, such as the BC547, using the same process in the TO-92 package, which is common and still being made.
Regarding the 2SK170. It may not be recommended for new designs, but the replacement, the 2SK880, is not through hole, it’s surface mount, and that would mean redesigning the PC board. So the assembler must use the 2SK170 until his supply of PC boards has been used up. The alternative would be to try to find a substitute JFET. If the JFET is in the Databook, you could find out what process is used, and then find other JFETs that use that process and try to find one that would substitute for the 2SK170.
I also got some 2N7000 MOSFETs. They also came on tape, but the tape has the side toward the MOSFETs coated with aluminum foil. This is to prevent damage from static electricity. The MOSFETs are held onto the the tape with masking tape. Normally the leads are cut off above the tape as the part is put into the PC board. The masking tape is never disturbed. But in my case, I don’t have a machine so I usually pull the part off the tape, and sometimes the masking tape pulls of with the part, sometimes it stays on the tape and the part leads pull free. The problem here with the MOSFETs is they are more sensitive than JFETs to static. That’s why there’s the aluminum foil. And the masking tape is triboelectric. This means when the tape is pulled off, it generates static electricity. So by pulling off the MOSFETs I could be causing them to burn out.
What to do? I could try to duplicate the machine and just cut the leads off above the tape. But then the leads are shortened and obviously not the same as when they were made. My thoughts are that if I squeeze the 3 leads between my fingers and pull the MOSFET off the tape, the static from the masking tape will go through my fingers and not damage the MOSFET. Or should I try to cut the masking tape off before I pull the MOSFET off the foil? I’ll have to experiment a bit to find out how each works.
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3/22/2013
Multi-purpose dual power supply regulator board AMS1117
All embedded systems require electric power to operate. Most of the electronic components inside them, including the processors, can operate at a wide range of supply voltage. For example, the operating voltage range for the PIC16F1847 microcontroller is 2 to 5.5 V. But there are certain applications where you need a regulated constant voltage to avoid malfunctioning of the circuit or getting erroneous results. For instance, any application that involves analog-to-digital conversion (ADC) requires a fixed reference voltage to provide accurate digital count for input analog signal. If the reference voltage is not stable, the ADC output is meaningless. Here is my latest dual power supply regulator board that provides constant 3.3V and 5.0V outputs from an unregulated DC input (6.5-10V). It is small in size and can be easily enclosed inside the project box along with a project circuit board. It can also be used to power test circuits on breadboard. The board uses two AMS1117 series fixed voltage regulators and receives input power through a DC wall wart or an external 9V battery.
The regulator circuit uses two AMS1117 series fixed voltage regulators, AMS117 5.0 and AMS1117 3.3, to derive constant 5.0V and 3.3V outputs from an unregulated DC input voltage. The circuit diagram of the board is shown below.
3/21/2013
IR2110 based power stage circuit
I started to build up the Open-BLDC circuit on a breadboard. Then a problem occurred. The low side works as it should but the high side just did not. After several hours of trying and reading the data sheet of IR2110 I gave up and asked Federico again for help. After some time we found an application note AN-978 from International Rectifier. This explained everything. You need to select very carefully the Boot capacitor. This is the one between VB and VS pins of IR2110. It is providing the charge for the gate of the high side MOSFET when you turn it on.
For testing you can take a big capacitor, so that when you manually switch on the high side you see something happen. I took a 330uF capacitor and it is enough to turn the high side MOSFET on for about 30 seconds. Still you have to be careful because the capacitor only gets charged when the low side MOSFET is turned on. So after turning on the power the capacitor is not charged and you have to turn the low side MOSFET on first, then turn it off again and finally switch the high side on.
In the final design one should probably select the right bootstrap capacitor. The equation for calculating that value is described on page 6 of the International Rectifier application note AN-978.
You can probably get rid of the capacitor and the diode if you connect VCC directly to VB. The problem you get then is that when the current on VS gets higher then 12V you get a problem. But I may be mistaken. Correct me if I am wrong.
Conclusion: read the damn application notes and I still have problems with understanding the electrical engineer talk!
I hope this helps someone. You can see my circuit for one half bridge attached to this post. And a picture of my breadboard.
I use the two LEDs to see what happens with the MOSFETs. They are glowing a little when both sides are off. The one connected to 12V is switching off when the high side is on and the one connected to GND switches off when the low side is on. I love LEDs!
3/20/2013
TIP122-E-C related Technical information
The figure shows a simple rain sensor design that incorporates pitch and volume controls in the alarm signal. Whenever the sensor is bridged by droplets of water, the Darlington transistor TR1/TR2 will conduct. This enables IC1, a 555 astable tone generator, to function, powering a small loud-speaker through a driver transistor (TR3). VR2 determines the pitch of the audio tone, which can be anything from about 25 Hz to 18 kHz, while VR3 adjusts the volume. The sensitivity of the circuit is set by VR1. The Darlington pair could be constructed with two separate ZTX300s or a single TlP122. For the sensor, use a small piece of stripboard, linking alternate strips into an interlocking design. The circuit will operate from a standard 9-V PP3-type battery.
3/18/2013
Upgrade Parrot CK3000 Evolution with a Max232 chip
In order to make the CK3000 work well with Android phones you will need to upgrade it to version 5.25c. You could do get this done by a professional, or you could buy a rather expensive official cable. I'm making the cable myself with the help of other people who made a similar one first.
This is a simple application of the Max232 chip i have:
I used the original data and power connectors for the upgrade. The data connector has a kind of appendix to which i connected the data wires (not very professional).
I also connected the required wire between pin 9 & 10 (not showing in this pic):
The actual setup on the protoboard.
I used a standard 5V AC/DC adapter.
The capacitors are 1uF 50V (10 cents each):
And now the software process. I used a laptop and a USB-to-serial adapter.
I started using an inverter (DC-to-AC adapter) and it faild almost always. Later i switched to a wall socket and it went better.
* Update process and symptoms:
- Select CK3000 Evolution.
- Select Serial update.
- Select 115200 baud.
- Wait for "XPRAM downloading". Progress bar should not move yet.
- If progress bar moves there may be something wrong.
- If it says something like "Cannot set baud rate" probably the wire between pin 9&10 is not ok.
- If it says something like "Cannot open port" disconnect the usb device, click back and next.
- Power on the parrot. After 1 to 5 seconds progress bar will start moving. It will take about 10 seconds to finish.
- If you get an error like "Cannot send data" there may be a bad cable.
- If the bar loops over and over something is wrong. Better try again.
The rest of the process is relatively fast except the "Flash programming" which takes more than one minute.
It can randomly stall or throw the "Cannot send data" error at any time. If it happens try again.
* Myths:
- "If you put two CK3000 close to each other they update the firmware automatically". It didn't happen to me.
- "You can do a wireless update with a bluetooth virtual serial port". I wasn't able to create a serial bluetooth connection. Parrot officially only supports cabled upgrades for the CK3000.
3/15/2013
The PCBs IRF3205 Have Arrived
The PCBs have arrived back from Chiltern Circuits. There are 8 panels, each containing 28 printed circuit boards.
I’ve made a minor change to the circuit too. The IRFZ44N MOSFET has been replaced by an IRF3205. The new transistor has a lower ‘on resistance’ so a little less power is consumed within the device. The Z44N has an on resistance of 17 milliohms (0.017 ohms), but the 3205 is less than half that at just 8 milliohms (0.008 ohms).
The IRF3205 does have a correspondingly higher gate capacitance (about 3.2 nanofarads), so I’ve reduced the gate resistance from 10k ohms to 4k7. Tests confirm that this has little or no effect on the charge pump circuit – the gate voltage is still over 20 volts relative to ground.
Labels:
circuits,
design,
device,
electronic ic,
IRF3205,
PCB,
Production,
project,
Transistor
3/04/2013
H-Bridge Motor Driver Using Bipolar Transistors 2N2907A
The classic beginner’s DC motor driver circuit that appears in every electronics textbook is the bipolar transistor H-bridge.
An H-bridge is an arrangement of transistors that allows a circuit full control over a standard electric DC motor. That is, an H-bridge allows a microcontroller, logic chip, or remote control to electronically command the motor to go forward, reverse, brake, and coast.
For the purposes of this article, I’m focusing on a basic H-bridge that is a good choice for most robots (including BEAM robots) and portable gadgets. This H-bridge can operate from a power source as low as two nearly-exhausted 'AAA' batteries (2.2V) all the way up to a fresh 9V battery (9.6V).
In later pages, I'll compare the performance of three different part numbers of popular transistors (2N3904/2N3906 vs 2N2222A/2N2907A vs Zetex ZTX1049A/ZTX968) using a common robot motor from Solarbotics.
The H-bridge circuit (below) looks complicated at first glance, but it is really just four copies of a resistor + transistor + diode.
Schematic of a bipolar transistor hbridge circuit to drive a DC motor. Can you see the letter 'H'?
There are many different ways to draw the circuitry, but the above wiring diagram matches the model of most h-bridges.
Q1, Q3: These are NPN transistors. They connect the motor to ground (negative terminal of the battery).
Q2, Q4: These are PNP transistors. They connect the motor to +2.2V to +9.6V (positive terminal of the battery).
R1-R4: These resistors prevent too much current from passing through the base (labeled B) control pin of the transistor. The resistor value of 1 kilohm (1000 ohms) was chosen to provide enough current to fully turn on (saturate) the transistor. A higher resistance would waste less power, but might cause the motor to receive less power. A lower resistance would waste more power, but wouldn’t likely provide better performance for motors running on consumer batteries.
D1-D4: Diodes provide a safe path for the motor energy to be dispersed or returned to the battery when the motor is commanded to coast or stop. I notice many H-bridge circuits on the web lack these diodes. I suppose that’s safe enough for light loads at low voltages, but without diodes, a motor voltage spike can force its way through the unprotected transistors, damaging or destroying them.
M1: This is a direct-current (DC) motor. These are very common. You can find them in surplus stores online or in salvaged toys. The motor should have only two wires. Measure the resistance of the two motor wires using a multimeter. If the motor resistance is less than 5 ohms, then the transistor parts listed in this article are too weak to power the motor.
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